Chekhov's Mistress

Where’s Joe, I ask you?

by Bud Parr


When writing about something that is either popular or has some sort of geek factor, journalists often get it wrong or add a tinge of condescension, but not so in last week’s NY Times article on espresso. (”Espresso’s New Wave Hits Town,” Sept. 13th, via Shot Zombies) where they did a very nice and nearly reverential piece on the emerging trend of really good espresso drinking (not the trend of espresso drinking, but the trend of really good espresso drinking):


Those results are apparent as soon as you pick up the cup. The crema that crowns these espressos is a ruddy, alluring come-on that persists as you decide whether it’s closer to the color of terra cotta or burnt sienna. It’s not the pale froth that quickly dissipates on lesser espressos. And it’s evidence that the sugars and oils in the coffee have been properly emulsified through careful brewing.




The aroma will be more nuanced — with suggestions of scents like jasmine and orange — reflecting the pedigree of the beans it’s made with, and the care and precision with which it was brewed.




It will feel richer, fuller and more viscous in your mouth. The acidity of the coffee will be balanced; the tannins will contribute shape, not sting.




If you take milk, it will be steamed to order just for your drink — a top-quality cafe never uses the same milk twice. And it will be poured to create a pattern in the crema — a heart, a leaf — that not only makes the drink more appetizing, but demonstrates the attention paid to it.


Great piece, but I have to ask where is Joe in this article? Joe is Joe The Art of Coffee on Waverly and Gay in the West Village (since expanded to other locations) and is every bit as “artisanal” (that used to be such a good word until, like perhaps “devine” it came to mean so little from over and poor use) as those mentioned in the article. Sometimes Joe’s espresso can be even too ristretto for my taste, but if you want to know what a good shot of espresso tastes like, start there. They care.


And, since this is a book blog, I have to say that the authors mentioned “The Coffee Book,” but didn’t bring up Nick Jurich’s excellent Espresso From Bean to Cup, (out of print but widely available used) which changed my life by giving me the knowledge to make great espresso from home (along with a hefty investment in equipment and hours of tamp training).


Where to get artisanal coffee in New York (from the NY Times, but revised by me):


JOE THE ART OF COFFEE 141 Waverly Place, West Village, (212) 924-6750 (and other locations)


NINTH STREET ESPRESSO 700 East Ninth Street (Avenue C), East Village, (212) 358-9225.


GIMME! COFFEE 495 Lorimer Street (Powers Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn; (718) 388-7771.


CAFé GRUMPY 193 Meserole Avenue (Diamond Street), Greenpoint, Brooklyn; (718) 349-7623.OSLO COFFEE COMPANY 133-B Roebling Street (North Fourth Street) and 328 Bedford Avenue (South Third Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn; (718) 782-0332.

posted September 21, 2006

comments

I agree with you 100%.  Joe IS great and Jonathan takes coffee extrememly seriously as well. Ask any NY coffee nerd and they will tell you Joe is great. 

As far as books are concerned, the list is vast. Search the www.jimseven.com archives. As one of the highest rated baristas in the world, he recently listed all the books that he considers essential reading.

Your revised list of coffee shops is spot on.  Thanks for the post.

MW

    – Mike White (09/21  at  02:06 PM)


Thanks, Mike - I’ll check it out.

    – Bud Parr (09/22  at  08:55 AM)


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